Friday, July 12, 2013

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List spills dirt on UK's ‘crap towns'

Posted: 12 Jul 2013 03:03 AM PDT

Scourge of tourist boards eloquently rubbishes bits of Britain its readers grew up in and escaped from
Urban blight in Britain

It's the scourge of tourist boards across Britain.

Now the increasingly infamous publication "Crap Towns" has published its long list for 2013.

Of 100 maligned British villages, towns and cities on the list, a shortlisted 50 will be included in a book, "Crap Towns Returns," to be released in October.

Readers nominate towns for inclusion in the list -- often places they live in or grew up in and escaped from.

Perpetuating a tradition of eloquent British miserabilism that stretches from Robert Burton's 17th-century "Anatomy of Melancholy," through the poetry of Philip Larkin and the Gothic pop lyrics of The Smiths, "Crap Towns" encourages readers to supplement their nominations with lyrically bleak descriptions.

The result is a publication the Sunday Telegraph has praised as a "Domesday book of misery."

"Shimmering shroud of doom"

"A huge sugar beet factory looms above the skyline and every so often (normally on a lovely sunny day) emits a cloying, sickly stench over the town like a shimmering shroud of doom," reads one nomination this year for the Suffolk market town of Bury St. Edmonds.

The village of Tilston, near the Welsh border, exemplifies "the weird dichotomy that exists in isolated rural areas when overpaid bankers buy old farm houses and refit them at exorbitant cost and then attempt to co-exist with the local people … some of whom still point at the sky when planes fly over," says one non-fan.

No doubt the good folk of Bury St. Edmonds and Tilston would beg to differ.

The Visit Bury St Edmunds website describes the town as a "dazzling historic gem."

Small town tourist boards have even more to worry about because what "Crap Towns" call its "gallows humor" has gone social.

The publication already has its website and a Facebook page. This year, it's teaming up with the free app VideofyMe to let users shoot anti-travelogues about their most disliked British town.

Cheering up?

But could "Crap Towns'" mood be improving?

This year -- "excitingly," the editors, Sam Jordison and Dan Kieran, say -- the book will include a list of "top 10 improved towns," places that no longer deserve to be called "crap."

Is this late-flowering happiness or a response to the kind of outrage that greeted the publication of earlier "Crap Towns"?

When Luton was voted Britain's crappiest town in 2004, its then council leader rallied to its defense in the media.

Perhaps not terribly convincingly, he praised the town's "excellent sports and fitness centers" and its "multiplex cinema."

At the time, however, a former Luton resident responded: "Growing up there in the 1970s and 1980s, it was the kind of place that as soon as one of your friends could drive you spent every Friday and Saturday heading down the M1 to London."

More "crap" town nominations and what readers said about them

Eye, Suffolk

"[W]e first noticed the pervading silence, not the idling calm of a settlement at its Sunday rest, instead a vacant, blighted emptiness originating in and emanating from multiple second homes … "

Broxburn, West Lothian

"The town's social life ... is mainly concerned with fighting, drinking, smoking dope and hanging around the main street from 8 p.m. onwards.

"There the distractions include frightening little old ladies, shouting abuse at women on their own, being sick into litter bins and, occasionally, being picked up by the police."

Louth, Lincolnshire

"Louth is the headquarters of the British Sprout Growers' Association, a body devoted to forcing children up and down the UK to eat a food that looks like mini green brains, tastes like an even worse kind of cabbage and makes you fart like a dying dog."

London

"[F]or a world city we are spectacularly unprepared for almost any eventuality. Be it snow, rain, heat or any other kind of weather we get every year the city will almost certainly grind to halt.

"Yes, we managed to pull off the Olympics but that was an anomaly. What the mayor called Londoners' 'Olympic spirit' was more like stunned disbelief that for once everything seemed to be running smoothly."

Do you live in a "crap" town or have you visited one recently? Or has your town unfairly been called "crap"? Tell us about it.

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Insider Guide: Best of São Paulo

Posted: 11 Jul 2013 07:06 PM PDT

Residents call it "Sampa" -- that's not the only local secret you'll find in this guide to one of the world's most vibrant megacities

With all there is to see and do in South America's largest city, the sheer size of the metropolis (estimated population around 20 million) often stuns the uninitiated visitor. 

Winding, one-way roads, steep hills and vastly different neighborhoods mean you'll need a plan in place to get the most out of your stay.

Don't despair -- getting to the locations that showcase the best of São Paulo isn't as hard as it might seem.

Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of São Paulo

More on CNN: Brazil's best beaches

Hotels

Luxury 

Extravagance awaits behind these wooden doors. Hotel Fasano

Stepping through the entrance of the Hotel Fasano, you're transported to the early 20th century, when a hotel experience was geared toward wealthy travelers expecting luxury. 

Warm, wooden decor and a grinning bartender convince you that wherever you'd planned to rush off to can wait.

Guest rooms are no less alluring, a mix of modern and '50s style mod, full of amenities like iPod stations, soaking tubs, towel warmers and panoramic views. 

Outside its walls you'll find all the additional luxuries of São Paulo's best neighborhood on the famous street, Rua Oscar Freire, and surrounding roads. 

Hotel Fasano, Rua Vittorio Fasano, 88, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3896 4000; from R$1,318 ($615)

 

Perfect place for creative contemplation. Hotel Unique

Architecture critic Paul Goldberger has called Hotel Unique "one of the seven wonders of the modern world."

Is it a ship? Some kind of space vehicle? 

Guests might never figure out what the massive, metallic semi-sphere is meant to be. But inside this best of São Paulo hotel there are plenty of interesting spaces in which to contemplate the question, including poolside on a rooftop deck that overlooks the lovely Jardins area of the city. 

Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antonio, 4700, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3055 4700; from R$799 ($375);

More than a place to sleep. Emiliano

If you're touring São Paulo by helicopter (which is best, considering the traffic), you're in luck at the Emiliano; this hotel has a private, rooftop helicopter pad.

Staff will arrange for an attendant to unpack your suitcases and a chauffer to drive you around the city. 

In house is the Champagne & Caviar Bar and upscale Emiliano Restaurant.

But the hotel is on Rua Oscar Freire, known for its high-end shops and restaurants, so you'll have plenty of opportunities to continue a spree once you walk outside. 

Emiliano, Rua Oscar Freire, 384, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3068 4393; from R$1,350 ($630)

Mid-Range 

Looks inviting, but test the temperature before a plunge. Staybridge Suites São Paulo

Conveniently located in the Brascan Century Plaza, which has a movie theater and a number of restaurants, the Staybridge is close to one of São Paulo's biggest business districts. 

The modern design of the rooms against a backdrop of the city skyline creates a cool, urban feel.

The Staybridge has a gym and outdoor swimming pool (unheated, so beware before you jump in during the surprisingly cold São Paulo winter). 

Staybridge Suites São Paulo; Rua Bandeira Paulista, 555, Itaim Bibi; +55 (11) 3706 6600; from R$360 ($169)

 

Rest stop for city adventures. Mercure São Paulo Jardins

This member of the Mercure chain is in Jardins Paulista, close to São Paulo's best restaurants and stores. 

Hotel amenities include a gym, indoor swimming pool, sauna and a business center. But since you'll spend most of your time on the streets, it works well as a comfortable place to check your emails and rest your head. 

Mercure São Paulo Jardins, Alameda Itu, 1151, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3089 7555; from R$224 ($105)

  

Budget 

All the basics in a convenient location. Ibis Budget São Paulo Paulista

What was formerly the Formule 1 Hotel -- built specifically for guest overflow during the Formula 1 season -- is now managed by Accor Hotels. 

The accommodations are basic, but the Rua da Consolação location means it's within walking distance of a number of neighborhoods and the subway. 

Ibis Budget São Paulo Paulista, Rua da Consolação 2303, Consolação; +55 (11) 3123 7755; from R$175 ($82)

More on CNN: Taming the piranha -- catching fish and busting myths in the Amazon

 

Dining

Amazonian mushrooms and other exotic ingredients make D.O.M. a best of São Paulo restaurant. D.O.M.

"Restaurant" magazine named this sophisticated Brazilian eatery, helmed by chef and author Alex Atala, the sixth best in the world.

Dishes use ingredients unique to Brazil, such as mushrooms from the Amazon and the medicinal beldroega from the Northeast. These delicacies are best enjoyed in a tasting-menu format so you can sample a maximum amount of flavors. 

Make reservations as soon as possible -- locals sometimes wait months for a table. If you don't score a table at D.O.M., around the corner you'll find Dalva e Dito, Atala's other restaurant. 

D.O.M., Rua Barão de Capanema, 549, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3088 0761; Monday–Friday, noon–3 p.m., 7 p.m–midnight., Saturday, 7 p.m.– midnight, closed Sundays; expensive

 

More than just meat. Vento Haragano

Churrasco is Brazilian barbecue, but churrascarias take this simple concept to an extreme: various cuts and categories of meat are served at your table by an endless (until you end it) parade of wandering waiters. 

More on CNN: 5-minute guide to Brazilian barbecue

The prime cut is called picanha (beef) -- request it before moving on to other options.

Tip: don't be too tempted by tapas placed on your table by the restaurant's crafty staff -- save space for the good stuff. 

For the meat-averse, Vento Haragano -- an obvious best of São Paulo pick -- has an extensive salad bar with nearly everything else imaginable, including sushi, fine cheeses and antipastos. The restaurant also has a good selection of wines. 

There's an additional advantage for those traveling with children: a huge second-floor playroom complete with monitores (baby sitters) to keep the kids occupied.

Vento Haragano, Avenida Rebouças, 1001, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3083 4265; Monday-Friday, noon-4 p.m., 6-11:45 p.m., Saturday and holidays, noon-midnight, Sunday, noon-11 p.m.; expensive

 

Best view in the city. Terraço Itália

Thanks to the large number of Italian immigrants in town, there's no lack of cuisine from the country.

What Terraço Itália has on its competitors in the category, however, is the best view in São Paulo. 

From both the 41st-floor restaurant and the 42nd-floor bar you can see a mile past forever while enjoying the restaurant's Tuscan fare. A stroll along the walkway outside will show you just how massive the city is. 

Terraço Itália, Avenida Ipiranga, 344, Centro; +55 (11) 2189 2929; Monday-Thursday, noon-3 p.m., 7 p.m.-midnight., Friday, noon-3 p.m., 7 p.m.-midnight, Saturday, noon-4 p.m., 7 p.m.-1 a.m., Sunday, noon-4 p.m., 7-11 p.m.; moderate to expensive

 

Where art and eating meet. Mercearia do Conde

Part restaurant, part gallery, Mercearia is great for taking in all of the interesting works that hang on the walls and from the ceiling. 

The food is as appetizing as the atmosphere.

Mercearia means "grocery" and the establishment started out as a grocery store, then eventually evolved into a full-fledged eatery. 

You'll find both familiar and unfamiliar dishes on the fusion menu. An adventurous start would be the mix de entradas da casa (appetizers of the house) as a preview of the restaurant's eclectic options. 

Mercearia do Conde, Rua Joaquim Antunes, 221, Pinheiros; +55 (11) 3081 7204; Monday–Wednesday, noon–4 p.m., 7 p.m.-midnight, Thursday, noon-midnight, Friday: noon–1 a.m., Saturday, 12:30 p.m.–1 a.m., Sunday, 12:30–11 p.m.; moderate

 

So simple, so good. Feijoada da Lana

Feijoada is often considered Brazil's national dish.

Dried meat stew accompanied by beans, rice, the root-based farofa, fried collard greens called couve and sometimes a few slices of orange makes a simple, yet surprisingly delicious meal. 

Feijoada da Lana serves a top-of-the-line version of the dish buffet-style, with a variety of complimentary cachaça (sugar-cane liquor) to accompany it.

Meals start with sopa de feijão, a black bean soup to which you can add garlic, green onions, bacon and even a bit of the cachaça. 

The restaurant is rustic and offers garden-style seating as well as tables indoors.

Tip: you may find yourself waiting for a seat on Wednesdays and Saturdays, the traditional days for feijoada feasting. 

Feijoada da Lana, Rua Aspicuelta, 421, Vila Madalena; +55 (11) 3814 9191; Monday-Friday, noon-5:30 p.m., Saturday, 12:30-5:30 p.m., Sunday, 12:30-5 p.m.; moderate

  

One big stack of meat. Bar do Mané at Mercado Municipal

The mortadella sandwich is a famous São Paulo snack that uses a pile of Italian bologna-type sausage of the same name. 

There are a number of places to pick one up at the Mercado Municipal, the city's largest food market, but the most traditional is at the famous Bar do Mané, a best of São Paulo establishment that claims to have been stacking these sandwiches since 1933. 

The most popular version is served hot with provolone cheese. It's customary to drink it with chopp -- Brazilian draft beer. 

Bar do Mané, Rua da Cantareira, 306, Sé (inside the Mercado Municipal); +55 (11) 3228 2141; Monday–Saturday, 4 a.m.–5 p.m., Sunday, 6 a.m.–3 p.m.; budget

More on CNN: Brazil's Northeast Coast: The next tropical paradise?

  

Nightlife

Now this is a creative cocktail. Boteco São Bento

A boteco is a corner bar where you might catch a group of elderly men drinking cachaça at any point during the day.

But in São Paulo, trendy "botecos" have fabulous food, creative caipirinhas (a cocktail made with cachaça and fruit) and live music. 

Boteco São Bento is one such establishment that has capitalized on the concept. It has everything a neighborhood boteco offers, but with more selection and sophistication, and still makes for a great local hangout. 

Boteco São Bento (two SP locations): Rua Mourato Coelho, 1060, Vila Madalena, 05417-001; Rua Leopoldo Couto Magalhães j.r, 480, Itaim Bibi; +55 (11) 3074 4389; Monday-Sunday, noon-2 a.m.; live music on Monday and Tuesday: 8-11 p.m., Saturday, 4-8 p.m.; moderate to expensive

 

Cool jazz, warm atmosphere. Casa de Francisca

This Jardins home-turned-art-house-music-establishment is low key and cool in the way only a place that caters to old-school, alternative Brazilian jazz can be. 

With tiny tables and a limited menu, the focus isn't on coziness and cuisine (although the food, such as house-made gnocchi, is delicious). No, when the lights go down and this multi-level space glimmers from its antique chandeliers to its candle-lit table lamps, the mood is beyond luxurious. 

Tip: If you can't secure a reservation, you can try asking about cancellations before they open the doors. 

Casa de Francisca, Rua José Maria Lisboa, 190, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3052 0547; Wednesday-Saturday, 8 p.m.-1 a.m.; moderate

 

The balada destination for young paulistanos. Alberta #3

This bar is named after Bob Dylan's cover of "Alberta" and the chill mood matches the music honored. 

The place transforms from pub to nightclub as the evening rolls on. You'll catch the hip, indie Brazilian crowd mellowing out until the dance tunes begin. 

This is one of the best places in São Paulo for balada, an all-night party destination for young paulistanos (the demonym given to local residents). 

Alberta #3, Avenida São Luís, 272, República; +55 (11) 3151 5299; Tuesday, 7 p.m.- 3 a.m., Wednesday and Thursday, 7 p.m.-5 a.m., Friday and Saturday, 7 p.m.-6 a.m.; budget to moderate

More on CNN: Love motel opens for pets in Brazil

  

Shopping

Customize your own pair on Rua Oscar Freire. Havaianas

This ultra-comfortable flip-flop made of rubber from the Amazon now comes in far fancier options than the ones made famous in its original line. 

At the flagship store on Rua Oscar Freire, you can create a custom pair or just trick out an existing sandal. 

The shop also sells custom-made socks for these stylish sandals. 

Havaianas, Rua Oscar Freire, 1116, Jardim Paulista; see website for additional locations; +55 (11) 3079 3415; Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sunday, noon-6 p.m.; budget to expensive

 

What separates men from boys is the price of their toys. Tools & Toys

Need a new yacht? 

Perhaps your helicopter is out of fashion? 

Located in the ultra high-end Shopping Cidade Jardins, this best of São Paulo shop has plenty of big-ticket toys to choose from. 

Even if you're not in the market for a new Sea Doo or Ferrari, it's fun to look around. 

Tools & Toys, Shopping Cidade Jardim, 3/F, Av. Magalhães Castro, Morumbi; +55 (11) 3552 4000; Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday and holidays, noon-10 p.m.; expensive

 

Latest Brazilian fashion trends at this boutique. Boutique Daslu

If your shopping objectives include Brazilian fashion, the best place to go is Boutique Daslu, where everything "in" is in the store. 

The Daslu brand's original style reflects the high-end trends of the city. 

Boutique Daslu, Shopping JK Iguatemi, Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek, 2041, Vila Olímpia; see website for additional locations; +55 (11) 3152 6601; Monday-Friday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday, 2-10 p.m.; expensive

 

Fashion, food and music in one place. SP Night Market

Every month this shopping event brings together a number of boutique outlets in one hip, best of São Paulo location. 

The theme is fashion and food, with vendors selling clothing, jewelry, accessories, art, wine, gourmet snacks, sweet treats and more. 

Expect a welcome cocktail (free with admission) and some live music to loosen up your wallet. 

SP Night Market, location and times vary, see website for details; R$20 ($10); +55 (11) 97962-1547

  

Attractions

There's plenty to do at São Paulo's largest park. Ibirapuera Park

Often compared to New York's Central Park, this attraction has all you'd want from a city park, including museums, planetarium, café, concert hall and plenty of space to ride bikes, walk and play. 

Famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer designed the buildings throughout Parque Ibirapuera, which means more than just the trees are aesthetically pleasing. 

More on CNN: The legendary buildings of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer

Warning: the park gets crowded on weekends. If you like your space, weekday or early Saturday morning visits are best. 

Ibirapuera Park, Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral; Vila Mariana; +55 (11) 5574 5045; daily, 5 a.m.-midnight

 

There's more history than you might expect at this cultural museum. Museum Afro Brasil

To understand the deep heritage of the Brazilian people, you must examine centuries of its history. The best place in São Paulo to do so is the Museum Afro Brasil. 

From the enchanting to the disturbing, this collection of paintings, costumes, indigenous and religious artifacts, and photography will immerse you in the story of how African and indigenous people influenced all that is today's Brazilian culture.

It takes a couple of hours or more if you want to see it all; the museum has multiple rooms and levels, plus exhibit space. 

Museum Afro Brasil, Parque Ibirapuera, Gate 10, Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral +55 (11) 3320 8900; Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; free

 

Graffiti art is an important part of paulistano culture. MuBE

The Museu Brasileiro da Escultura is home to works that represent the contemporary pulse of the Brazilian artist. 

Graffiti, multimedia and giant three-dimensional structures are just some of the visual sustenance you can consume at the museum. 

Attached to the exhibit space, which includes a sculpture garden, is a restaurant where you can pick up some delicious Brazilian snacks or a full meal. 

The museum hosts theater productions, music performances and movies. 

MuBE, Avenida Europa, 218, Pinheiros; +55 (11) 2594 2601; Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; free

 

Brazil's most important pastime -- but you knew that already, right? Museum of Futebol and Pacaembu Stadium

There's a common passion that holds the country together as a united front against all who would oppose it -- futebol.

You'll have a hard time finding a Brazilian who doesn't follow a team. 

To get to know the most important Brazilian pastime, the Museu do Futebol is the place to visit.

Inside Pacaembu Stadium, the museum hosts a number of high-tech and interactive exhibits that lead you through the history of the sport.

Museum of Futebol and Pacaembu Stadium, Praça Charles Miller, Estádio do Pacaembu; +55 (11) 3664 3848; Tuesday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; R$6 ($3)

  

Coffee in São Paulo

Brazil is by far the world's largest producer of coffee. The development of São Paulo has been heavily influenced by Brazil's coffee boom in the early 1800s.

Today, coffee is a big part of the social scene.

Brazilians love the drink and the city has some exceptional places to enjoy a cup. 

Coffee place to see and be seen. Santo Grão

At this popular coffee house, it's not just about the café, but seeing and being seen. 

The shop on Rua Oscar Freire is most often frequented by high-powered executives conducting private deals and ladies of luxury taking a break from their buying sprees.

You can buy sacks of the shop's signature beans to take with you. 

Santo Grão has a light menu and delicious juices. It also offers a nice selection of wines, which means the shop stays busy from morning until the twilight hours. 

Santo Grão, flagship shop, Rua Oscar Freire, 413, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3062 9294; Monday, 9 a.m.-1 a.m., Tuesday-Thursday, 8 a.m.-1 a.m., Friday, 8 a.m.-2 a.m., Saturday, 8 a.m.-2 a.m., Sunday, 8 a.m.-midnight; moderate; see website for other locations

 

Where they make a good cup of coffee, and a whole bunch of other good stuff. Octavio Café

Not your typical coffee house, Octavio's structure is expansive and shaped like a giant coffee bean. 

It's really more of a full-fledged restaurant than a café. It even has a happy hour.

The draw is the coffee and beans that come from Predregulho, Alta Mogiana, the region that's famous for fabulous coffee. 

The seating is set up for all sorts of scenarios, including business meetings or enjoying a cup alone. 

Octavio Café, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2996, Jardins Paulistano; +55 (11) 3074 0110; Monday-Friday, 7:30 a.m.-9:30 pm., Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; moderate

 

The place to jump-start your day… or afternoon… or evening. Suplicy Café

Founder Marco Suplicy comes from a long line of people with interest in coffee, and his pleasant shops reflect his passion for the brew.

The best of São Paulo café in Jardins caters to visitors to the shopping district. 

In addition to a cup of coffee, you can get some smoothies and juices. Menu options are limited to what is in the glass case -- mostly breads, sandwiches, quiches and desserts -- but the shop's blend of Brazilian beans is so savory you'll want to grab a bag for the road. 

Suplicy Café, flagship shop, Alameda Lorena, 1430, Jardim Paulista; +55 (11) 3083 0666; Monday-Friday, 7:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Saturday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday, 8:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; moderate; see website for other locations

More on CNN: World's coolest nationalities -- where do Brazilians rank?

How to do Malaysia ... and get it right

Posted: 11 Jul 2013 07:00 PM PDT

Got two weeks? Penang, Langkawi and Kuala Lumpur are a great way to introduce yourself to an edgy slice of paradise

I dub it the stairway of knickknack hell.

Little more than a cramped, hot, concrete path up the hill to Penang's incredible Kek Lok Si Buddhist temple, the paved series of steps is filled with tiny shops selling horribly made knock-offs, religious trinkets and tacky souvenirs.

Every few dozen meters an elderly beggar can be found sitting on a step, holding out his or her cup in hope of snagging a few ringgtt from a passing tourist. 

Turns out I could have skipped that long stairway, had my driver/tour guide been kind enough to drive me further up the hill to the main temple entrance. 

Penang's Kek Si Lok -- worth the effort it takes to get here. I won't take back those curses I silently cast his direction when I realized he'd signed me up for a retail workout I didn't ask for. But I will thank him for reminding me what makes Malaysia so appealing –- its ragged edges. 

Travelers passing through Southeast Asia often describe Malaysia as the perfect balance between tourist-heavy Thailand to the north and clean, orderly Singapore to the south.

It serves up enough grit and color to ward off the sort of sterility most seasoned travelers loathe, yet offers luxury comforts, as well. 

Cameron Highlands: Malaysia's enduring 'Little England'

Taking in the best of this 330,000-square-kilometer country in your average two-week visit is impossible.

There's Mount Kinabalu to climb, the Cameron Highlands to sip tea in, the waters of Sipadan to dive and the ancient Taman Negara rainforest to stomp through, to name a few.

But first-timers who are short on time can experience the best of Malaysia's beaches, food, culture, wildlife and shopping by hitting up its three most popular destinations -- Penang, Langkawi, Kuala Lumpur -- which are all connected by daily flights operated by a number of airlines.  

George Town, Penang

Char kuey teow is one of the first dishes visitors should try in Penang. "Pace yourself or you'll get fat."

Blunt words of wisdom from a local watching me plow through my plate of lamb rending and squid eggs during my first meal in Penang's capital, George Town. 

He's right.

UNESCO-listed George Town isn't a destination to hit if you're big on dietary austerity -- eating will consume much of your thought process while you're there. 

Gallery: Malaysia's best dish is ...

"What should I have for lunch today? Nasi Lemak? Maybe a bowl of laksa? Char kuey teow?" 

A food tour is among the easier ways to get acquainted with the local eats. 

For something personalized, Penang-based food and travel journalist Robin Eckhardt offers private tours, which need to be booked at least five weeks in advance. 

Eckhardt's "EatingAsia Street Food Excursion" is a reflection of her belief that the best way to get to know a destination is through its cuisine. 

Her most popular excursion is on foot and hits up George Town's culinary highlights, taking two to three hours.   

To learn how to cook some of Penang's most popular dishes when you get back home, Nazlina Spice Station offers regular classes in a small shop house in central George Town.

Sessions include a visit to nearby markets and last three to five hours.

Owner Nazlina also does private dinners for two people or more, by reservation only. Her website has more info on days/times/menus.

Try as you may, you can't spend your entire time in George Town eating. Here are some other Penang attractions worth checking out.  

Gallery: Asia's first Legoland opens in Malaysia

George Town heritage walks

Many of George Town's shop houses were built in the early-20th century and have been carefully preserved. Old George Town is a walker's dream. Earning its World Heritage designation back in 2008, there are dozens of historic landmarks, from old English colonial mansions to Malay, Thai and Indonesian architecture. 

Among these are the stunning Kapitan Keling mosque, Little India, Armenian Street and Fort Cornwallis. 

Guided heritage walks leave from George Town's PHT Office every morning at 9 a.m. (26 Church St., opposite Pinang Peranakan Mansion).

Visit the Penang Tourism website for more info. 

Penang Hill

On a clear day, the views of George Town and beyond from atop Penang Hill are unrivaled, while the difference in climate atop the 2,750-foot mound will make you forget you're in the tropics. 

The speedy ride up the hill on the funicular is an unexpected thrill.

What I didn't realize, though, is that the lines to get the funicular back down can be fairly long if you go in the late afternoon. But not long enough that for one moment I even considered walking back down via the trail, a jaunt that staff say can take as long as three hours. 

Temple run

The Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple's Panca-Rupa -- or Guardian Protector. Though Malaysia on the whole is predominantly Muslim, in Penang the majority of the population is Chinese. Hence the significance of the massive Kek Lok Si -- or Temple of Supreme Bliss.

Highlights include the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas and a 30-meter-high bronze statue of goddess Kuan Yin. 

If that doesn't sate your theological interest, Wat Chayamangkalaram and the Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple peer across from one another on George Town's Burma Road.

Wat Chayamangkararam is a Thai temple featuring a 180-foot, gold-plated statue of the reclining Buddha.

Dhammikarama is filled with quirky shrines alongside the classic pagodas and statues one normally associates with Burmese Buddhist art.  

Peranakan culture

Antique-filled sitting room inside Penang's Peranakan Museum. The Baba Nyonya people, also known as Peranakan or Straits Chinese, are mainly of Chinese descent, originally from Fujian Province in southeastern China. 

Penang has a long and proud Baba Nyonya heritage, which has adopted many aspects of local culture.

The place to learn more Baba Nyonya life is the Peranakan Museum on Church Street. It's set in a restored mansion built near the end of the 19th century. 

The former home of Kapitan Chung Keng Kwee, a leader in the Penang Chinese community, it features thousands of antiques and displays highlighting the culture of the time.  

There's also the Blue Mansion, former home of Chinese merchant Cheong Fatt Tze, and built in the 1880s. The bright, indigo-blue property has been restored and is now a boutique hotel.

Daily tours start at 11 a.m., 1:30 p.m. and 3 p.m.; no need to book ahead.  

More on CNN: Malaysia's top 40 dishes 

Where to stay

Eastern & Oriental counts Noël Coward, Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham and Herman Hesse among its most famous guests. A boutique hotel boom has taken place in George Town since it's UNESCO heritage designation, with local entrepreneurs going on a townhouse renovation binge.

One of the more popular is 23 Love Lane Penang, a luxury property in a renovated heritage building with modern musts like iPod docking stations and free WiFi. 

If boutique hotels aren't your thing –- I mean if you want a nice, big pool to retreat to after an afternoon of gorging on some of Malaysia's best eats -- heritage hotel Eastern and Oriental is as good as it gets. 

The very first enterprise of the famed Sarkies Brothers -- the Armenian siblings behind the Raffles Hotel in Singapore -- the stark, white structure was one of the earliest major historic buildings in George Town.  

Today, it's still about tropical gardens, manicured lawns and G&T sundowners on the veranda.

There are two connected buildings, the heritage wing and the new Victory Annexe, which opened in March this year. 

If you want space, the 135-square-meter Writer's Suite, with a large private balcony, is a stunner.  

Eastern & Oriental, 10 Lebuh Farquhar, Penang; +60 (0)4 261 8333; rooms from $240 per night 

Langkawi 

Silhouette of a Great Hornbill taking flight in Langkawi. Let's get one thing out of the way. Langkawi might be Malaysia's most popular beach destination, but the only wild things in this place are the animals found in its jungles. 

There's a hint of nightlife to be found on Pantai Cenang beach, though compared to nearby Phuket up in Thailand the action is tame. Particularly during low season, from April to October.  

Most travelers who visit aren't looking for a party, but a quiet escape in natural surroudings. 

Insider Guide: Best of Langkawi

Langkawi's Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforestpark. In 2007, UNESCO declared Langkawi and its surrounding islands a World Geopark.

Basically, that means it's a place with one or more sites of scientific importance, "not only for geological reasons but also by virtue of its archaeological, ecological or cultural value." 

In Langkawi's case, there are three areas of rock formations that fit that bill.

There's the 400-million-year-old Machinchang mountain ranges; the rugged karst limestone formations of the Kilim Karst Geoforest Park; and the Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforestpark, best known for the body of water at its center, the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden.

Island hopping through the area's islets is a great way to kill a day, with some of the country's best snorkeling on offer. 

SkyCab/Bridge

The 125-meter-long SkyBridge is perched on a 700-meter-high ridge. Because that's not scary. Cable cars don't usually live up to the hype. Once you get over the initial thrill, you tend to start looking ahead for the exit. The SkyCab is an exception.

Opened in 2003, this 2.2-kilometer-long ride carries passengers almost to the top of Machincang mountain, some 708 meters above sea level. A 360-degree view of Langkawi and surrounding islands awaits at the top.

Perhaps even cooler than the cable car is the 125-meter-long SkyBridge, a curved suspension bridge suspended 100 meters above ground. 

Panorama LangkawiBurau Bay, +60 4 959 4225

Where to eat 

La Sa, at the Casa Del Mar hotel, is regularly rated as one of the best restaurants on Pantai Cenang.

Sunset views share the stage with fine food, excellent service and fantastic cocktails. The menu has a mix of Western and Asian dishes, but the standout is the Malaysian tapas platter.

La Sa, Jalan Pantai Cenang; +60 4 955 2388

10 best islands for a Malaysia holiday

Where to stay 

Datai's new beach villas are so awesome even the monkeys want in on the party. The Datai is isolated, a good 40 minutes from the most popular "nightlife" zone.

But it might just be the most romantic place to stay on the island.

This sprawling beach-front resort -- guests are shuttled around the property by golf carts -- was built to respect its surroundings rather than encroach on them, with jungle growing wildly throughout and landscaping kept to a minimum. You don't need expansive lawns in a place like this.

Famous for its onsite wildlife sightings, everything from monkeys to wild boars (small ones) can be spotted trotting about.

In 2013 the resort added 14 fabulous high-tech pool/beach villas, each with a private 12-meter pool, multiple showers and a separate dining/living area. 

Guests are reminded to keep their pool villa doors closed, lest there be a repeat of an earlier incident when a band of monkeys allegedly attacked the M&Ms in a mini-bar, throwing things about with the hyper-abandon of a two-year old in a sugar bowl.   

The Datai, Jalan Datai, Teluk Datai; +60 (0)4 959 2500; rooms from $325 per night 

Kuala Lumpur  

One of the most exciting cities in Southeast Asia, Malaysia's capital buzzes 24-7. 

Like Penang, it's fueled by a diverse mix of locals, which is reflected in its architecture, food, arts and culture.

Most global travelers tend to look at KL as a stopover point on the way to other Malaysian holiday destinations.

That's a mistake.

This thriving cosmopolitan city is a destination in its own right. 

Where to eat

I rate Penang higher in terms of the quality of food, though it's a difficult comparison given the sheer size and variety on offer in Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia's capital is certainly no food slouch.

Kuala Lumpur: 20 great restaurants

Open day and night, the Jalan Alor Hawker Center is one of the top spots in KL for street food. 

The decor is little more than rows of tables and chairs set up along both sides of a traffic-clogged street. But the selection and price makes it worth that side order of exhaust you didn't ask for.  

If you want to enjoy local Malay food without sweating it out at hot hawker stalls in the middle of traffic, Bijan Restaurant is one of the few high-end Malaysian restaurants not just in KL, but the whole country. 

Bijan Restaurant3 Jalan Ceylon, Bukit Ceylon; +60 (0)3 2031 3575 

Where to shop

KL's Petaling Street Night Market. Where KL does have the rest of the country beat is shopping, offering a nice mix of malls and markets. 

Petaling Street, or Jalan Petaling, is in the middle of heaving Chinatown and famous for its night market.  

A few of the leading shopping malls in Kuala Lumpur are: KLCC (Lot No. 241, +60 03 2382 2828); Starhill (Starhill Gallery 181, Jalan Bukit Bintang, +60 03 2782 38556), Berjaya Times Square (1 Jalan Imbi, +60 03 2117 3111), The Curve (Mutiara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Selangor, +60 03 7710 6868); and Pavilion (168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, +60 03 2118 8833) .  

If it's tourist tack you're after, Peter Hoe Beyond (2/F, 145 Jalan Tun H S Lee; +60 03 2026 9788) in Chinatown is a nice alternative to the historic Central Market and sells home decor items, souvenirs, textiles, apparel, fashion accessories and artwork –- all from Southeast Asia.

Obligatory shot of the Petronas Towers. Whether you want to or not, you'll see them. About those towers

Few can spend any amount of time in Kuala Lumpur without succumbing to the urge to take a photo of the Petronas Twin Towers.

They're over-hyped, but you can't deny they're a pretty good-looking piece of architecture.  

Once the tallest twin structures in the world, rising 88 stories (452 meters), the Petronas Twin Towers' design was inspired by the Islamic geometric shape resembling an eight-pointed star.  

On Levels 41 and 42, a 28-meter-long, double-decker Skybridge links the two towers. 

Better arrive early in the morning if you actually plan to go up. Only a handful of tickets for the Skybridge (RM50 per adult, RM25 per child, free for under-threes) are issued each day. 

Petronas Twin Towers, Take the LRT train ride and alight at KLCC Station; exit at Kuala Lumpur City Centre, +603 2331 8080

Islamic Art Museum

One of KL's cultural highlights is the Islamic Art Museum.

It houses a collection of Islamic art from Southeast Asia, including artworks from small jewelry to a model of Mecca's Masjid al-Haram. 

Surrounded by the Kuala Lumpur's Lake Garden, it's also a nice little place to escape KL's urban chaos. 

Islamic Art Museum, Jalan Lembah Perdana; +60 (0)3 2274 2020

Where to stay

If you're after a hotel right in the middle of the action, the Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur (12 Jalan Pinang; +60 (0)3 2182 1234; rooms from $175) is a new kid on the block -- it opened last year. A 39-story hotel adjacent to the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, it's within walking distance of some of the city's major sites, such as the KL Tower. 

If you like your rooms with a side of heritage, The Majestic is the hot KL property of the moment. Under the "Leading Hotels of the World" umbrella, The Majestic was built in the 1930s. The owners recently added a 15-story tower to the original property, which is linked by an air-conditioned walkway.  

This is the place to stay if you're planning to spend the bulk of your KL trip checking out cultural attractions such as the National Museum, National Mosque and the Bird/Butterfly Parks. (5 Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin; +60 03 2785 8000; rooms from $172)

More on CNN: Insider Guide: Best of Kuala Lumpur

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