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| 9 top cities for 'detective travel' Posted: 26 Aug 2013 11:00 PM PDT Murder. Smuggling. Extortion. Here's all the grit your guidebook won't mention, but your favorite mystery writer will  Once upon a time it was the sunlit fjords, clean cities and reputedly gorgeous locals that drew tourists to Scandinavia. Now it's crime, grime and darkness that's equally likely to reel them in. A recent boom in the popularity of so-called Nordic noir -- TV cop dramas and crime novels based in northern Europe -- has seen fans making pilgrimages to the scene of the crime, the Scandinavian cities featured therein. But why stop there? With France tipped as the next hotbed of Euro-crime fiction, there's plenty of vacation inspiration from the doings of Gaelic gumshoes. There's no reason to limit your detective travels to Europe. Why travel like a private eye? The reason, as Sherlock Holmes would say, is elementary. Whereas traditional guidebooks stick to the boring old tourist mill, crime fiction steers its readers to the seamier corners of the city, where mystery, adventure and possibly even sauciness lie in wait. Let's look at the evidence. Exhibit A: Stockholm
Lisbeth Salander, a tattooed security consultant who hacks computers, kicks ass and wreaks nasty revenge. Both appeared in Stieg Larsson's "Millennium" trilogy. Guide books say: Pretty Scandinavian city once home to Vikings and ABBA. Crime fiction says: In Södermalm, the buzzing island suburb that both Blomkvist and Salander call home, you'll find stunning views, interesting shops and groovy people. Stockholm City Museum now offers guided tours of Millennium trilogy locations. Crime scene: Mellqvist Kaffebar, Hornsgatan 78; +46 (0)76 875 29 92. The coffee shop and cafe was a favorite of both the late Larsson and his characters. Exhibit B: Copenhagen, Denmark
Guide books say: Visit the twee Little Mermaid or the happy hippies of Christiania commune. Crime fiction says: Lund's city is dark, cold, perpetually overhung with rain clouds, riddled with corruption and littered with corpses. Lund's $370 Faroe island sweater might steal the show, but there are plenty of other stars, not least the elaborate brick-built City Hall, the austere police headquarters or the upscale Østerbro district that Lund initially called home. Crime scene: Holberg No. 19 cafe, Holbergsgade 19d; +45 33 14 01 90. A favorite of "Killing" star Sophie Gråbøl. Exhibit C: Edinburgh, Scotland
Guide books say: Och aye! Bagpipes, tartan and ancient castles. Crime fiction says: Och no! Rebus pursues murderers, gangsters and bent politicians through Edinburgh's back alleyways and dark staircases to locations ranging from rundown housing projects to the Scottish parliament -- with plenty of booze stops along the way. The guided Rebus tour does it best. Crime scene: The Oxford Bar, 8 Young St.; +44 (0)131 539 7119. Real life regulars at Rebus's favorite watering hole crop up in author Ian Rankin's novels. Exhibit D: Paris
Guide books say: Ah Paris! City of romance, of style, of architecture, of je ne sais quoi. Crime fiction says: Ah Paris! City of pestilence, superstition and medieval grudges. Author Fred Vargas conjures a French capital of introspective and untidy communities populated by amiable weirdoes. It's a far cry from the boutique-filled boulevards. This is a grubbier, more vital world and, as Vargas's florid plots unfurl, no less filled with je ne sais quoi. Crime scene: Père-Lachaise Cemetery, Av. Gambetta. Built to re-accommodate Paris black death victims, this tangled graveyard is classic Adamsberg territory. Exhibit E: Oslo, Norway
Guide books say: Boats in museums -- choose from Viking vessels or the Kon-tiki, weird park-based art (the heebie jeebie-inducing Vigelandsparken sculpture collection) and an opera house. Plus fish. Crime fiction says: There aren't really any mean streets in Oslo -- Hole's home address on Sofies Gate is in the city's leafy Hanshaugen district -- so Nesbø adds grit via his hero's frequent trips to bars such as the Underwater pub (so gritty it hosts regular opera nights). Crime scene: Restaurant Schrøder, Waldemar Thranes Gate 8; +47 22 60 51 83. A stodge-serving Norwegian eatery frequented by Hole when he's barred elsewhere. Exhibit H: Marseille, France
Guide books say: Explore the Old Port, stroll along La Canebière avenue, lose yourself in the exotic Panier district. Crime fiction says: Writer Jean-Claude Izzo captures the smells and tastes of Marseille, but imbues Montale with his own ambivalence toward the city. In his trio of crime novels, Izzo spends half his time hymning about France's second city and the rest despairing about its evils. As he bluntly puts it: "Marseille isn't a city for tourists. There's nothing to see." Crime scene: Chez Loury, 3 Rue Fortia; +33( 0)4 9133 0973. Also a keen food writer, Izzo sings the praises of this classic Provençal restaurant. Exhibit I: Ystad, Sweden
Guide books say: The charming town of Ystad is surrounded by pretty fields, splendid castles and golf courses. Zzzzzzz. Crime fiction says: Writer Henning Menkell sees only stark, windswept countryside where bodies wash up on deserted beaches and teenagers are butchered in woodland glades. Crime scene: Hotel Continental, Hamngatan 13; +46 411 137 00. Where Wallander eats numerous lonely dinners for one. Exhibit F: Cape Town
Guide books say: With Table mountain, the V&A waterfront and vineyards, Cape Town is South Africa's jewel. Crime fiction says: Cape Town suffers from the same corruption, poverty and apartheid hangovers as the rest of South Africa, and has the body count to prove it. But writer Deon Meyer's dusty city is far more exciting than the yawn-inducing destination portrayed in travel brochures. Crime scene: Carlucci's Deli, 22 Upper Orange Street; +27 (0)21 465 0795. A sandwich bar that is the hub of the action in Meyer's page-turning "Thirteen Days." Exhibit G: Shanghai
Guide books say: Gaze in awe at ultra-rich Shanghai's rapidly expanding skyscape. Crime fiction says: Gaze with respect at disappearing ways of life and those who fall victim when money, power and politics collide. Crime scene: Laobanzhai restaurant, 600 Fuzhou Road; +86 21 6322 3668. Author Qiu Xiaolong's favorite. Tags: |
| Posted: 25 Aug 2013 09:19 PM PDT On any given day, there are as many tourists in the Floating City as there are locals. With our expert guide, you can enjoy Venice as both  In its heyday, the Queen of the Adriatic was the world capital of publishing, banking, jewelry and trade. Venetians established the first bank at Rialto in 1157, the first written patent law in 1474, the first ghetto in 1516, the first casino in 1638, the first art Biennale in 1895 and the first film festival in 1932. These days, the local population has dwindled to less than 60,000, while the number of tourists has soared to over 20 million a year. But the best of Venice is tucked away from the eyes of the masses, often hidden in plain sight. The cultural and luxury market is thriving. In addition to art and cinema, La Biennale has expanded to include dance, theater and music, as well as becoming the most important architecture festival in the world. High fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton and Diesel have teamed up with the city to breathe new life into ancient monuments.
You will get lost in Venice. It's part of the fun. Don't worry; we'll guide you through the best of Venice. HotelsLuxury
Aman Canal Grande Venice Throughout the centuries, Palazzo Papadopoli has been peppered with colorful characters, hosting grand parties and welcoming visitors from around the world. Now the Arrivabene family has found a clever solution to continue that tradition. The 16th-century palace is still the home of Count Giberto Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga and his wife, Bianca, who live on the top floor with their five kids. They rent out the rest of the property to Aman Resorts, and guests are encouraged to consider it their palazzo-away-from-home. There are only 24 rooms for guests, plus two private gardens and a rooftop terrace -- making you feel like you are a privileged guest at a cozy, civilized house party that has been going on for centuries. Aman Canal Grande Venice, Palazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, Sestiere San Polo; +39 041 270 7333; from €1,000 ($1,330) per night
The Gritti Palace After a €34 million ($46 million) nip and tuck, the Gritti recently reopened in all its familiar splendor. The spirit of Ernest Hemingway still permeates the corridors of this Venetian institution, right down the hall from where Somerset Maughan once found his muse. New themed suites have been added: the Peggy Guggeheim Suite boasts a Pablo Serrano sculpture and Manolo Valdes' Dora Marr on the wall, along with a view of Peggy's place, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, across the canal; the La Fenice Heritage Suite features a centuries-old harpsichord; the Redentore Terrazza Suite with its 250-square-meter rooftop terrace, complete with mini pool and views across the Grand Canal, is the most impressive. The Gritti Palace, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467, Sestiere San Marco; +39 041 794 611; from €485 ($650) per night Mid-range
Hotel Al Sole Its members include bishops and admirals, composers and commanders -- Titian himself painted a portrait of Doge Nicolò Marcello. The hotel is strategically located close to Piazzale Roma and Campo Santa Margherita with comfortable rooms and a peaceful garden. Warning: the spirits of the ancestors have free reign, so you just might find yourself sharing your room with an ambassador to the Sultan. Hotel Al Sole, Santa Croce 134/136, Sestiere Santa Croce; +39 041 244 0328; from €125 ($170) per night
Novecento Boutique Hotel The Novecento Boutique Hotel is off Campo San Maurizio, which puts it right in the center of Venice's universe, but out of range of the maddening crowds. The furnishings and tapestries are Far East and Mediterranean originals, a reminder of the days when Venice and the Orient were trading partners. There are only nine rooms, all with en-suite bathrooms and exotically furnished common areas, an "honesty bar," plus a small garden for breakfast when the weather is fine. Novecento Boutique Hotel, Calle del Dose, 2683/84, Sestiere San Marco; +39 041 241 3765; from €200 ($270) per night Budget
Corte 1321 Bed & Breakfast There are only four rooms at Corte 1321 Bed & Breakfast: two quads, one triple and one double, all with en-suite bathrooms. The price is 50 euro per person. If you can fit yourself into one of those categories, you will score a great location, tasteful furnishings, a private courtyard complete with ancient well, Wi-Fi and a TV -- one quad even comes with a kitchen. If you're a single, or you're a couple who want to stay in a quad, the price is higher, depending on the season. Close to the Rialto Bridge, it is difficult to find, but easy to reach once you get your bearings. Corte 1321, San Polo 1321, Sestiere San Polo; +39 041 522 4923; from €50 ($67) per person Apartments
Views on Venice Filippo Gaggia is the personable owner who handles the most desirable properties in Venice, from moderate to expensive -- he even rents his family palazzo, the impressive Palazzo Loredan dell'Ambasciatore, once home to the ambassadors of the Holy Roman Empire. Views on Venice, San Marco 4267/a; +39 041 241 1149; from €180 ($240) per night, 3-night minimum DiningGrancaffé Quadri, abcQuadri and Ristorante Quadri
Ristorante Quadri (upstairs) In a merger of the Titans, the Alajmo family, of the renowned Le Calandre -- the three-star Michelin restaurant in nearby Padua -- took over the Quadri in Piazza San Marco back in 2011, transfusing fine dining with an awesome view of one of the most dramatic venues on the planet. Max Alajmo designed the menu, zapping traditional Venetian and Italian classics into the 21st century. The focus is on fish that arrives daily from the Rialto market. The Laguna tasting menu includes Burrata cheese ravioli with mixed seafood, fresh tomatoes and oregano. Ristorante Quadri, Piazza San Marco 121 (upstairs); +39 041 522 2105; closed Monday; expensive
Grancaffé Quadri and abcQuadri (downstairs) In 1725, Giorgio Quadri and his wife, who were from Corfu, bought the coffee house in Piazza San Marco and began serving Turkish coffee, a new delight. Three hundred years later, the show plays on, from breakfast through nightcaps, the famed Quadri orchestra playing in the background. Now that the Alajmo family operates the Quadri, if you step inside and stand up at the bar, you can actually get a caffé for €1.10 ($1.50) and Venetian appetizers called cicchetti for €2.00 ($2.70). If you don't feel like getting dressed to go upstairs for dinner, grab a plate of pasta at the abcQuadri, which offers Alajmo-inspired cooking in a relaxed atmosphere. Grancaffé Quadri and abcQuadri; Piazza San Marco 121 (downstairs); +39 041 522 2106; budget-expensive
Harry's Bar Bartender Giuseppe Cipriani founded Harry's Bar in 1931 after having a 10,000-lira loan repaid by a young American man named Harry Pickering, who threw in an extra 30,000 lira so Cipriani could open a high-society bar. It was an instant hit, attracting the international elite. The next year Giuseppe's son was born, and he named him Arrigo, which is Italian for Harry, who runs the show today. Harry's Bar is a Venetian rite of passage. The Bellini -- puréed white peache and prosecco -- was invented here, as well as the Carpaccio, created for an ailing countess ordered by her doctor to eat raw meat. The food is classic Venetian. The chocolate cake is divine. Harry's Bar; Calle Vallaresso 1323; Sestiere San Marco; +39 041 528 5777; expensive
Ristorante Al Vagon Celsa Grinzato grew up at Al Vagon, which was bought by her parents in 1951. Her husband and kids work there; now her granddaughter is growing up there, too. The fresh produce comes from San Erasmo, a local island in the lagoon; the fish comes from the Rialto market. Celsa makes the desserts by hand; the semifreddo alla meringa -- ice cream cake -- is a specialty. Located on a quiet canal, there is plenty of outdoor seating where you can watch the gondolas go by. Ristorante Al Vagon; Cannaregio 5597; +39 041 523 7558; closed Tuesdays; moderate
Bar Rialto da Lollo The best tramezzini and panini -- sandwiches -- in Venice are in this little cafe under the Sottoportici degli Oresi at the Rialto Bridge. The codfish and artichoke tramezzino is a standout and the coffee is excellent. The place is packed with locals at lunch; eat standing up or try to squish your way onto a stool. Bar Rialto da Lollo; Sestiere San Polo 57; +39 041 520 0106; closed Sunday; budget NightlifeClubbing as it's known in the outside world is almost nonexistent in Venice, with noise ordinances kicking in at 11:00 p.m., codes against live music and elderly Venetian women armed with watering cans on patrol in top-floor apartments. However, a few places have managed to wriggle their way around the rules.
Campo San Giacomo di Rialto and the Erberia According to legend, it was here that Venice was born on March 25, 421 A.D. at 12:00 noon, and it is still a major hub in the Venetian wheel. The bars and eateries in and around Campo San Giacomo di Rialto -- known locally as San Giacometto -- and the adjoining Erberia have evolved into Venice's main party scene. Think of the campo as a giant, outdoor living room, connected by a bunch of different dining rooms, bars, cafes and kitchens. Some places have live music; some have DJs, some just have a good sound system. You can segue from spritz hour to dinner to after-dinner drinks to rowdy rocking to weeping in your best friend's arms without ever having to leave the zone. Campo San Giacomo di Rialto and environs, from morning to late night
Spritz It's a Venetian tradition to have a spritz with friends after work and before dinner, and bars all over town serve them up with gusto. The spritz was introduced in Venice when it was under Austrian occupation in the early 1900s, and is a mixture of white wine or prosecco, seltzer, and either Aperol, Campari (more bitter) or Select (sweeter), adorned with an olive and an orange slice and usually served on ice. Spritzes are often accompanied by some sort of snack, from potato chips to cichetti (Venetian appetizers). Spritz - Served at every self-respecting bar in Venice; starting at about €2 ($2.70)
Taverna al Remer Remer is one of the few establishments in Venice (outside of hotels) that knows what happy hour and a cocktail is. It feels like a tavern, with clunky wooden tables, but with a touch of class -- discreet antiques are scattered throughout. There is a piano, and that means there is music, and musicians dropping by. If you want dinner conversation, it's best to sit in the other room. Outside there is a small square on the Grand Canal, and a little dock with a great view of the Rialto Bridge, where you can wander with your best-of-Venice drinks. At lunch (noon-3:00 p.m.) there is a substantial all-you-can eat-buffet with local produce, including wine, water and cofee for €20.00 ($27). At Happy Hour (5:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m.) there is an all-you-can-eat snack table with cocktail included for €8.00 ($10.70). Dinner starts at 8:00 p.m., serving local Venetian classics, mainly fish. The music starts cranking at 9:00 p.m. and has been known to last until 1:00 a.m. and beyond, depending on the crowd. As the evening wears on, tables get shoved out of the way and the dancing begins. Taverna al Remer; Cannaregio 5701, Campiello del Remer, Sestiere Cannaregio; +39 415 228 789; budget-moderate; closed all day Wednesday and Sunday lunch Shopping and AttractionsVenice keeps one foot firmly planted in the past. It has been compared to Disneyland, but it is actually the Magic Kingdom, where jobs such as maskmaker, glass blower, gondolier and fish monger still exist, and counts and countesses still live in palazzi. From Palladio to Titian, the immense amount of art and architecture concentrated in such a small area can dazzle the senses.
Vaporetto dell'Arte If you buy a normal time-limited vaporetto (water bus) ticket from 12 hours to a week, and pay €10 euro more at the time you purchase your ticket, you can ride on the Art Vaporetto for as long as your ticket lasts. This is something every sane person should do. Instead of being stuck on a boat with the sweltering masses, you can ride on a comfy vaporetto with Wi-Fi, put in your earplugs and listen to a guided tour of the Grand Canal as you travel down one of the most spectacular water ways on the planet. The Vaporetto dell'Arte runs from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. every 30 minutes, seven days a week, and makes only 10 stops. It highlights the art and culture to be found at each stop, provides a map, and encourages visitors to hop on and off to take it all in. Vaporetto dell'Arte; purchase at vaporetto (ACTV) ticket offices throughout the city; the one-day ticket for the Vaporetto dell'Arte on its own, without the standard ticket is €24 ($32)
Louis Vuitton Venezia A "Maison" offers an exclusive range of services that are not available in regular Louis Vuitton stores, like a nifty VIP shopping salon that disappears behind a wall and Made to Measure shoes. Maisons are also larger and are housed in distinct buildings -- in this case, the former Cinema San Marco designed in 1936 by architect Brenno del Giudice, a manifesto for contemporary architecture in its time. On the top floor, the store features a very cool exhibition space. Vuitton has partnered with the Fondazione Musei Civici a Venezia, Venice's Civic Museums, to sponsor the restoration of classic artworks, which are loaned to this new space. Then, a contemporary artist is invited to exhibit, inspired by the classic work. The newly-opened store's opening exhibit is entitled "Where should Othello go?" and features the restored painting The Death of Othello (1879) by Pompeo Molmenti, together with the contemporary video art Strawberry-Ecstasy-Green (2013) by New York-based artist Tony Oursler, and runs through November 24, 2013. Louis Vuitton Venezia; San Marco 1345; +39 041 522 4500; expensive
La Bottega dei Mascareri Maskmaking in Venice can be documented back to the 13th century, when masks were used for a variety of reasons -- in the government, on the stage, as a form of dress and as a means of disguise. During Carnival, social and class distinctions were flipped on their heads, with servants dressing up as masters and vice versa. These days there seems to be a mask shop on every corner, but only a handful are the real deal -- most are Chinese imitations. Sergio Boldrin and his brother, Massimo, have been a major force in keeping this early art form alive. La Bottega's creations are completely handmade the traditional way, from papier-mâché, and were featured in the film, Eyes Wide Shut. La Bottega dei Mascareri, San Polo 80 (Rialto), +39 041 522 3857; budget-expensive
Gems of Venice The Venetian Marco Polo was one of the most famous travelers on the ancient Silk Road, together with his father and uncle. After traveling through the Far East for more than two decades, they returned in rags to Venice in 1295. No one believed they were the Polos, nor any of the amazing tales they had to tell, so they arranged a banquet, ripped open the linings of their ragged coats, and out tumbled a fortune in gems. For more than 30 years, Angela Cook, the British-born founder of the boutique, has traveled to exotic locales on her own quest for treasures to offer her clientele. In her workshop close to the Rialto Bridge, local artisans assemble the jewels into unique, wearable works of art.
Ottica Vascellari The family had been in the optic business for generations, originating in the 1930s with Roberto's grandfather, up in Calalzo di Cadore. Bees-wax and wood are used in the last steps of production, so the eyeglasses you wear on your face are composed of natural materials. Even though Vascellari eyeglasses are handmade, they actually cost less than the average designer glasses, priced around 100 euro.
Càrte Venezia Diaries and agendas. Paper jewelry: earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches and belts. Purses. Bowls. Furniture. And lots more. Even Rosanna doesn't know what she's going to paper-ize next. From conception to design to construction of models to the finished product, she is constantly pushing the envelope.
Simone Cenedese - Vetro di Murano Feuds rage between different branches of the same family. The industry is of such importance that, in the past, a traitorous glassblower who revealed his secrets would be punished by exile or even death.
Acqua Alta Bookshop There are thousands and thousands of books inside Libreria Acqua Alta, some new, most used; most are in Italian, but also come in a smattering of languages. The owner, Luigi Frizzo, is saving all the books. Only in Venice
Gondola There is another Venice that is only visible at water level, and there is only one Venice. It's a trip into another dimension. Sunset is a good time to go. The Rialto Markets
The Fish Market Located near the Rialto Bridge on the San Polo side, the fish market is now in the Pescaria, a "modern" covered pavilion built in 1907.
Fresh vegetables and fruit from the local islands of San Erasmo and Vignole are on offer, as well as imports from the exotic Mediterranean and beyond. |
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