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- Not just for Christmas: 10 reasons to hit Finnish Lapland
- Beyond Istanbul: Turkey's lesser known hideaways
- More women-only days announced for Dubai beach parks
- Mariachi mecca: Mexico City's Plaza Garibaldi soldiers on
| Not just for Christmas: 10 reasons to hit Finnish Lapland Posted: 22 Apr 2013 03:00 AM PDT A trip to Finnish Lapland to see Santa Claus, his reindeer and the elves is the stuff of childhood dreams. The irony is, you'll probably enjoy it even more as an adult. When the Yuletide bubbly has fizzled out and those rich, childish imaginings fade, this Arctic region that caps the northern part of the Scandinavian Peninsula offers a wintry, European experience that'll provide enough tales for many a future Christmas dinner. 1. Gold
There's gold in them there Lapland river valleys. It was first discovered in the Ivalojoki river valley in 1868, prompting a mini-gold rush. But there's still a little to be found by lucky and/or determined prospectors. When the rivers thaw, locals and tourists alike get panning, hoping to come upon a life-changing nugget. A 251-gram nugget was once found in the Miessijoki river, but many tourists head for the museum at the Tankavaara Gold Village, where the Finnish Open Goldpanning competition takes place every July and visitors can pan for gold all year round. 2. Lip-licking Lappish food
Fans of Rudolph look away now -- reindeer features heavily in the local cuisine. It's fat free, healthy and wonderfully gamey, but if eating one of Santa's beloved sleigh-pullers is a step too far, there are plenty of other Lappish delicacies to explore. There's reindeer food -- lichen -- which, when dried, makes a light, crisp garnish for all kinds of arctic fish, baby root vegetables, herbs, berries and even liquorice. For a full expression of local flavors with a modern twist, head for Lapland Hotel Sky Ounasvaara's restaurant in Rovaniemi, where TV chef Tero Mantykangas pushes the boundaries of an ancient cuisine. 3. Gorgeous lakes filled with fish
Lapland is home to hundreds of lakes, the biggest of which is Lake Inari, in the far north, which covers more than 1,000 square kilometers. Even when the lakes are frozen, Lappish fishermen can be found with their ice fishing augers drilling through the ice by hand to catch pike, perch, rainbow trout and whitefish. Ice fishing safaris are available to tourists, which often include scooting off to a frozen lake by snowmobile. There's often more chance of catching a cold than a fish, though, so warm clothes are recommended. Grayling Land offers ice fishing safaris from October to May. 4. Wildlife (and the not-so-wild life)
There are wolves, wolverines and brown bears roaming around the wilderness of Finnish Lapland. So it's a good idea to whistle while you're exploring to let them know you're coming. Locals have the right to hunt small numbers of these beasts without a special permit. Many keep herds of reindeer, which often fall prey to such predators. Luckily, there are some 200,000 reindeer in Lapland -- and only 180,000 people. Huskies and white Samoyed were brought in from Siberia too, as working dogs to pull sleds. These days they pull tourists, but it gets them out of their kennels. Nordic Visitor provide dogsled tours and other activities in Finnish Lapland. 5. Brag-worthy winter sports
There's nothing you can do in Val D'Isere or St. Moritz that you can't do in the ski resorts of Lapland. There's downhill, cross-country and freestyle skiing and snowboarding, you can walk the forest trails with snowshoes or have your face whipped by the fresh mountain air courtesy a snowmobile. From Yllas to Levi, Luosto to Pyha, the resorts are quiet with a laid-back, family-friendly feel, ideal for beginners, experts and posers alike. 6. Aurora borealis
Since most of Lapland is situated within the Arctic Circle, it's an ideal spot to watch the northern lights. According to ancient legend, an arctic fox, whose swishing tail sends sparkling lights into the sky, creates the aurora borealis. Dancing displays of green, red and blue lights can be seen on clear, dark nights when conditions are right. Authentic Scandinavia offers tours specifically for viewing the lights. 7. Sami culture
Not many places in Europe still have a thriving community of indigenous people. The Sami originated in the Sapmi region of Lapland -- a far-northern area comprising parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia -- making them Europe's northernmost indigenous people. There are thought to be just under 10,000 Sami living in Finnish Lapland and you can learn about their culture, customs, costumes and languages at the Arktikum museum and science center in Rovaniemi. 8. Awesome art and architecture
Lapland isn't all lakes, forests and wilderness. Rovaniemi, the "capital city" and gateway to the region, is a busy urban center packed with modern buildings, from the functional to the fascinating. Ninety percent of the old town was destroyed in World War II, but a redesign was led by famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. The new town plan followed a reindeer antler plan, and today's Rovaniemi features many meticulously designed, environmentally friendly buildings that have inspired architects all over the world. One building that survived the war is a 1930s mail truck depot, which has been converted into the Korundi House of Culture. This is where Rovaniemi's heart turns into art, with exhibitions of local artists and a small but perfectly formed concert hall, playing host to the Lapland Chamber Orchestra 9. Forests and huts
The great swathes of birch, pine and spruce trees in Finnish Lapland are vitally important to the local economy. Exploring the forest is a Finnish Laplander's favorite pastime. A network of open wilderness wood huts stretches across the national parks of the area (www.outdoors.fi/Huts). Many have provisions for a campfire and are free to use for a night while you trek through the forest trails. Like many buildings in Lapland the huts are made of wood, which is one reason sustainable forestry is so important to the region. Visitors can learn more about Nordic forests at the beautiful wooden Pilke Science Centre in Rovaniemi. 10. Real saunas
There's an old saying in Finnish Lapland: "If it's a cold sauna, it's a Swedish sauna." Sauna has a very special place in the hearts of the local people, to the point of fierce rivalry. A real Finnish sauna is insanely hot, can last for hours and is most commonly enjoyed completely nude. Locals meet in saunas, relax in saunas and some even give birth in saunas. They thrash each other with birch twigs in saunas. They jump into frozen lakes after saunas. There are electric saunas, hot stone saunas, smoke saunas and even an ice sauna at the Arctic Snow Hotel in Rovaniemi. Just be careful to pronounce it right ("sow-na") or they might lock you in a sauna. Getting thereReach the Finnish capital Helsinki with Finnair and fly onwards to Rovaniemi. There are some direct flights to Rovaniemi from some European airports. VR (Finnish Railways) runs splendid double-deck overnight sleeper trains, with comfortable compartments, free Wi-Fi and a superb restaurant car, from Helsinki to Rovaniemi. Stay there: Rovaniemi is the gateway to Finnish Lapland, so Lapland Hotel Sky Ounasvaara, on a mountain overlooking the town, makes for a great base to go exploring. Lapland Hotels also has properties in resorts around the region, from Levi to Luosto. |
| Beyond Istanbul: Turkey's lesser known hideaways Posted: 21 Apr 2013 11:00 PM PDT Grand palaces, ancient ruins, magnificent mosques -- there are many things that can pique a traveler's interest in Turkey. But get past the popular spots and you'll find several destinations that even the greatest Turkophiles may not have visited. Urla: Slow food, slow life
Unlike Çeşme and Alaçatı, two nearby spots that attract crowds in the summer, Urla has a coastal serenity. Urla's history dates back more than 5,000 years. It's home to the oldest known olive oil press. It was formerly the ancient Greek city Klazomenai and one of the oldest known ports of the Aegean. Today Urla is a quiet escape and a leader in the slow-food movement and organic farming in Turkey. Urla offers a variety of activities including scenic drives and swimming in the clear waters of the Aegean from May to September. A full day here might include a wine-tasting and vineyard tour at Urla Şarapçılık after trying some local specialties at Beğendik Abi, located at the town center. A leisurely walk by the harbor (Iskele) in the afternoon can be followed by a seafood dinner at Yengeç. We recommend Kemal Bey Range for an overnight stay. Urla Şarapçılık: Kuşçular Köyü, 8028 Sokak No:12, Ukuf Mevkii, Urla/Izmir; +90 232 759 01 11; www.urlasarapcilik.com.tr Beğendik Abi: Cami Atik Mahallesi, Tatar Cami Sokak No:12, Urla Merkez/Izmir; +90 232 754 2071; www.begendikabi.com.tr Yengeç Restaurant:İskele Mahallesi, 2121 Sokak No: 6 D:1, İskele-Urla, Izmir; +90 232 752 11 52; www.yengec-restaurant.com Kemal Bey Range: Kaz Deresi Mevkii, 35440 Urla/İzmir; +90 232 759 05 14; www.kemalbeyrange.com Polonezköy: A Polish village in Istanbul
An hour's drive from the historical peninsula is Polonezköy, formerly called Adampol, a Polish village that features breathtaking greenery, impressive architecture and an intriguing history. After fleeing their homeland in the 1840s, Polish refugees settled in the area, creating a distinctively Polish village within easy reach of the city. Although the Polish population is now less than 100 people, the village still carries its Polish features and serves as a charming getaway, especially for weekenders with a more active nature. The important sights include the Polish cemetery, Our Lady of Częstochowa Church and the historic home of Zofia Rizi. Visitors can trek or cycle through the woods and picnic. Fall brings fantastic photo-worthy colors. If you go during summer, try to coincide with the Cherry Festival in June when Polish culture is celebrated with traditional folk dancing. Hotels in the village include the Polka Country Hotel, a historic building with distinctively Polish features. Alternatively, Saklıköy Country Hotel & Club, set in Ishaklı Köyü Plain, is a 15-minute drive away and has an authentic country setting with outdoor activities like horseback riding, ATV drives and paintball. Note: Public transport is not available to the area so visitors need to arrange transportation. Polka Country Hotel: Polonezköy/Istanbul; +90 216 432 32 20 Saklıköy Country Hotel & Club: Bayramköprü Mevkii No: 6/A, Ishaklı Köyü, Beykoz/Istanbul; +90 216 434 55 22; www.saklikoy.com.tr Tepeköy: An old Greek village in Gökçeada
A popular summer getaway for locals, the island's quiet village Tepeköy is undisturbed by concrete developments and is peaceful and uncrowded even in the peak of summer. The island's history dates back nearly 2,500 years, having been ruled by the Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. Until recently, the village's population was in the thousands, now it barely has 30 residents. Most of the residents migrated in the 1960s, but it has seen a reawakening in the past 20 years thanks to Barba Yorgo. This Tepeköy-native began reviving his hometown by restoring his old house, turning it into a guest house that includes the island's only Greek tavern. He has inspired other residents to also run guest houses in the village. One of the main attractions of the village is the 19th century church, now restored. The old Greek cemetery also attracts visitors but the real attraction here is the view. The best way to enjoy Gökçeada is by taking a drive to admire the stunning views of the sea, photograph the now-restored old Greek houses, have a picnic at Çınaraltı where a 600-year-old oak tree stands and an antique fountain still functions. During summer there's the Festival of the Virgin Mary, held each year on August 15. Crowds of Greeks come to Tepeköy on that day for the Orthodox service, which is followed by a communal lunch and a big party with traditional Greek music in the evening. You can sample local life at Barba Yorgo's guest house where he'll happily chat with you while sipping his home-made wine. Barba Yorgo: Tepeköy/Gökçeada; +90 286 887 42 47; www.barbayorgo.com Gito Yaylası: The Black Sea's cloud land
If the bustle of Istanbul tires you out, you can find peace and quiet in Gito Yaylası, a plateau nestled between the Kaçkar Mountains. It's difficult to get to, but this untamed piece of rural Turkey is worth the effort. Visitors need to fly to Trabzon then drive for an hour to Çamlıhemşin dictrict of Rize, then drive for another two hours. There is not much to do except wake up to beds of clouds, take scenic walks, go on photo safaris and enjoy the local delicacies. Koçira is the area's only guest house and it is a testament to the hospitality of the local people. It's worth bringing your camping gear along too as there are some great treks to be done. Koçira: www.kocira.com (Note: The guest house provides pick-up services for travelers without a vehicle) |
| More women-only days announced for Dubai beach parks Posted: 21 Apr 2013 09:30 PM PDT Men were turned away from one of Dubai's popular beaches on Sunday under new "women-only" regulations. The Dubai Municipality has launched more women-only days at the emirate's top beach parks, popular with families and tourists for the stretches of sand and connecting gardens that can all be accessed with a small entry fee. Under the new decree, Jumeirah Beach Park and Al Mamzar Beach Park are setting aside two days each week -- Monday and Wednesday at Jumeirah, Sunday and Tuesday at Al Mamzar -- as women-only days. The only males allowed in are those under the age of four. Even the lifeguards and park staff will be female on those days, reported Dubai daily newspaper Khaleej Times. "The move is part of the civic body's plan to make the leisure destinations more women-friendly to encourage them into more physical activities and keep fit," said the Times report. Monday was already a women-only day at Jumeirah Beach Park and the Dubai Municipality's decision to add more was a result of positive feedback from female customers. Bikinis remain tightly controlledMen must head to the open beach areas away from the enclosed parks. Note to female foreign tourists: bikinis remain subject to a strict dress code and are limited to the beach areas only. The Municipality also separated areas by activity. There are now designated beach areas for barbecuing, sun-bathing and other activities. Designated spaces for ladies is an ongoing trend in the city. Last year, the emirate's first women-only dance night -- launched as an event to allow Arab women to "let their hair down" -- was held at the Gloria Hotel, while a number of Dubai hotels including the Tamani Hotel Dubai Marina and the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel have opened ladies-only floors. More on CNN: The ultimate Dubai stopover guide |
| Mariachi mecca: Mexico City's Plaza Garibaldi soldiers on Posted: 21 Apr 2013 03:00 PM PDT
Men in bright outfits and tight trousers with buckles running down the legs flag down your car and offer you a song. Being accosted in the car makes for an unusual encounter for first-timers here, especially as the plaza is still a few blocks away. Mexico City's mariachi mecca is tinged with a late afternoon glow and there are already crowds of people gathering for an evening of song. Around a thousand mariachis play in the square at different times, serenading couples and small families with aching ballads for a price. People are drawn by the unique experience of having an entire band play and sing directly to them -- if only for a few minutes. Violinist Cesar Coronado has been playing for 30 years. He arrives at 5 p.m. and his work -- paid for by various comers and goers in the square who pay for song or two -- ebbs and flows throughout the evening. "We don't have a specific timetable, there is no pattern," he says. "What we want is for people to leave happy -- especially the tourists from abroad so they can get to know our music." Tenampa: Mexico's mariachi meccaUnlike most other mariachis, Coronado has a residence inside the legendary Salon Tenampa, which proudly dominates one side of the plaza. The roots of mariachi music in Mexico City can be traced to this bar. It was opened in 1925 by Juan Hernandez, who began luring mariachis from his native Guadalajara to play what was then an obscure regional genre. They began a habit of having one band play outside in the square while another entertained inside -- and Garibaldi's tradition was born. Later, when Mexican cinema began making films featuring famous singers, the music became ingrained in the nation's culture. Walk inside Tenampa and you're immediately hit by a deep sense of history. The walls are covered in murals of onetime mariachi heroes and the bar area is preserved from its golden era, with red leather booths and waiters in bow ties.
The pat down alerts you to the underside of Garibaldi Plaza. The area has been in slow decline for decades and is need of regeneration. For some, its contemporary image is of a seedy square full of drunks, where crime has made the atmosphere dangerous. The plaza is adjacent to a neighborhood known for being unsafe, but a heavy police presence shows the government is taking steps to secure a tourist icon. "For many years free consumption of alcohol was allowed in the square," says Isaias Muñoz, a manager at Tenampa for 15 years. "That created a bad image because sometimes you would have 3,000 people in the square drinking at the same time and that will create problems." Last year, a law restricted alcohol consumption in public places. "The image has changed," Muñoz continues. "We are turning it around again, to what Garibaldi once was: a place for leisure, family and culture." Others strongly disagree and the alcohol issue has become a flashpoint. "The mariachi is in crisis right now," says Antonio Corrubia, leader of the local mariachi union. "When the authorities made the decision that people can't walk around with a beer or rum, fewer people come and the musicians have less work. I have colleagues who work here all night and make 10 dollars."
"I love the atmosphere," said one French tourist. "It's fiesta." Inside Tenampa -- a licensed bar -- the party was in full force. Cesar and his nine-piece band were engaged by a long table of well-heeled Mexican men for an hour. Intensity was poured into every song, which the band members have been playing for decades At $10 a song, money was clearly not a consideration for the group of revelers -- Bacardi bottles littered the table and men downed 50/50 Cuba libres in one gulp. Drunken hugging and singing inevitably followed -- a show of genuine love of the music, not an ironic appreciation of its sometimes kitsch image.
There was an even mix of men and women in the room and the bar is one of the few places in Mexico where rich and poor share a Saturday night out together. For Cesar, a long evening of playing still awaited -- things at Tenampa normally wind down at 4 a.m. "We have a saying in Mexico," he said, placing a plug into his ear (he stands next to the trumpeter). "Do it until the body gives up." Despite a shifting culture and more stringent local rules around this traditional art form in a classic Mexico City plaza, no one appears to be giving up any time soon. Salon Tenampa, Plaza Garibaldi # 12 Col. Centro, Mexico City, D.F.; +52 55 26 61 76; www.salontenampa.com |
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