Friday, July 5, 2013

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5 other firework displays worth seeing

Posted: 04 Jul 2013 08:55 PM PDT

Missed the July 4 celebrations? There are plenty of other bangs, whizzes and whooshes to look out for
main sydney

July 4 is synonymous with loud, bright firework displays.

But a few bangs and it's over -- what if you missed them?

Fear not -- there are other great ways to suffer tinnitus for 20 minutes.

Here's a selection of the most popular fireworks displays taking place in the next few months.

1. Montreal International Fireworks Festival, Canada

firework montreal"Pyromusical synchronization" ... sadly, we can't provide an audio accompaniment.

When: June 22–August 3, 2013

Where: Quebec's La Ronde amusement park, Montreal, Canada

Each year, eight top-tier firework companies from around the world are invited to present a 30-minute show at Quebec's La Ronde amusement park.

The festival's website gets all hifalutin about the displays. "Pyromusical synchronization is an art form that can only be mastered through experience," it says. 

To put it another way, it's a visual feast accompanied by musical storytelling.

This year's event will last for six weeks, starting with an Australian demonstration on June 22 and followed by teams from Hong Kong, the U.S. and Croatia, among others.

2. Pohang International Fireworks Festival, South Korea

firework pohangNow we know why Pohang is called the "City of Light and Fire."

When: July 26-August 4, 2013

Where: 95, Haean-ro, Buk-gu, Pohang-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do

Pohang is the first place on the Korean Peninsula to see the sunrise. Known as the "City of Light and Fire," it has a long tradition of shooting bright colors into the sky.

Each summer, people flock to Bukbu Beach and Hyeongsan River Sports Park for the Pohang International Fireworks Festival, which includes a fireworks competition, fringe fireworks festival and more.

This annual event is also a beach festival with events including the Pohang Bada International Theater Festival, Sand Sculpture Exhibition and National Badminton Contest.

Traditional Korean dance and music are performed throughout.

3. Katakai Fireworks Festival, Niigata, Japan

firework katakaiYonshakudama, the world's biggest firework, shoots a kilometer up and blooms 800 meters wide.

When: September 9-10, 2013

Where: Asahara Shrine, Katakai-machi, Ojiya City, Niigata

Summer is firework season in Japan. "Hanabi" ("flowers of fire") displays are held across the country in July, August and September, when people wear national dress and enjoy plenty of traditional food and games.

Japan is home to the world's largest firework, the Yonshakudama. The 450-kilo shell shoots almost a kilometer up, before exploding into a bloom 800 meters across.

To celebrate the arrival of autumn, two Yonshakudamas are launched at the Katakai-Matsuri Festival in the town of Katakai every September.

During the festival, "the night sky is painted with giant wheels," according to the Niigata Prefecture Tourism Guide website.

4. Sydney on New Year's Eve

Fireworks in sydneyA billion people are said to tune in to the Sydney New Year's Eve fireworks display.

When: January 1

Where: Sydney Harbour

Sydney calls itself the New Year's Eve Capital of the World for a reason. Each year, more than 1.6 million spectators assemble around Sydney Harbour to watch the fireworks.

More than one billion people worldwide watch the event live on TV, the organizers say.

As midnight struck on January 1 this year, seven tons of fireworks shot up from Sydney Harbour Bridge, barges in the harbor and seven city skyscrapers, the display lasting 12 minutes.

A different "creative ambassador" helps to organize the event each year. Kylie Minogue took part last year; her successor will be the artist and musician Reg Mombassa.

5. Dubai New Year's Eve firework display, UAE

firework dubaiThe world's tallest building becomes among the brightest on New Year's Eve.

When: January 1

Where: Burj Khalifa, Dubai

This year's New Year's Eve firework display in Dubai involved pyrotechnics bursting off the sides of the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building.

Synchronized with a live performance by the Prague Philharmonic Orchestra, hundreds of fireworks ignited around the 830-meter-high structure.

Wild Wakatobi: Indonesia's spectacular and little-known dive destination

Posted: 04 Jul 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Thought all the best beach and diving locations were already too crowded? Wakatobi is a quiet, pristine alternative

We ride into the heart of Wakatobi –- one of Indonesia's premier dive sites –- on a faded wooden boat loaded with instant noodles, juice boxes and an aerodry washing machine.

At the dock in Kaledupa, men with bowler helmets sweep our bags into a canoe and throw us back out to sea. The heat has bleached the color from the land and trees, but as we putter across a channel to Hoga Island the water remains a cool swirl of vibrant aqua, teal and indigo. 

This is southeast Sulawesi, a birthmark-shaped island in Indonesia's northeast and home to some of the world's most spectacular coral reefs.

I'm traveling with seasoned Indonesianists and we're ready to dive, swim and toss back cold, sunset beers in soft, cloth hammocks. 

It's not until we come to a halt in the shallow waters lapping Hoga's beach that the silence sets in, followed by fears that we might be making a terrible mistake.

These are remote islands, tiny freckles on the Indonesian map, made even more distant by a lack of connective infrastructure –- like toes severed from feet.

As we sink our own feet into the hot, white sand, my mind turns to the granola bar in my knapsack –- that could last me for a day, I calculate, thinking this island was far more deserted than we'd anticipated.

Yet hidden behind the expanse of palm trees sits a cluster of delightful wooden bungalows and a shaded veranda with dining tables. Rooms are available. 

Creating a culture of conservation

Wakatobi's Bajo, part of a once-nomadic sea tribe, now live on stilted homes over the water.

The name Wakatobi is an amalgam of its four main islands –- Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko.

The seas surrounding the southeast Sulawesi district received national marine park status in 1996 and Wakatobi has since garnered attention from conservationists and avid scuba divers drawn by its incredible underwater diversity and expansive reefs.

Each summer hundreds of students descend on Hoga, one of Wakatobi's many minor islets, to conduct research through Operation Wallacea, a non-profit sustainable development group based in England. 

Environmental outfits like the World Wildlife Fund have also been helping to improve park management and publicize its vast biodiversity.

In 2012 the WWF released a film about the Bajo, a once-nomadic sea tribe that now lives on stilted homes over the water and depends on fishing for survival. 

Resourceful and ingenious, the Bajo dive using hand-made wooden goggles.

"We want to promote this place for divers, people who really love to come for the nature," says Geertje Berveling, who works with the Hoga Dive Resort. On my second day on Hoga I watch a Bajo man row to shore, scurry effortlessly up a coconut tree, claim a fruit and scoop out the meat in one long, continuous roll.

In view of Hoga is Sampela, the only Bajo village in the region completely disconnected from the mainland.

The village has a mosque, schools and convenience stores.

There is a soccer pitch and a small health clinic, all built on dead coral and connected by a snaking series of wooden bridges and walkways. 

The belief in the sea and its bounty influences Bajo society, but many traditions are slowly evaporating as fish stocks dwindle.

The Bajo have also had to adjust their lives to increasing conservation efforts.

Growth in scuba diving, for example, has led to a crackdown on bomb fishing, which in the past destroyed large chunks of otherwise pristine reefs.

"We want to promote this place for divers, people who really love to come for the nature," says Geertje Berveling, a Dutch conservationist who assists with the dive center at the Hoga Dive Resort.

Beyond Bali

Wakatobi Dive Resort is one of the only luxury resorts in the area, offering plush eco villas, spa services and personalized dive cruises.Last year more than 8 million foreign tourists visited Indonesia, placing it 33 out of 50 countries for tourist arrivals, according to the United Nations World Tourism Organization

The ministry of tourism aims to draw 10 million visitors by 2014.

But the country's main resort island, Bali, is suffering from a tourist glut.

Hotels are straining water resources and beaches are littered with refuse.

Tourists complain that traffic jams and parking lots have overtaken paradise. Cases of sexual assault and alcohol-related deaths are on the rise. 

To meet growth targets that rely on tourism development, the government says it needs to promote destinations beyond Bali.

Anthias abound on the reefs of Wakatobi. (Photo courtesy Wakatobi Dive Resort) Wakatobi is one of 16 priority areas slated for development.

Tourism Minister Mari Pangestu admits that the island chain is still difficult to get to, but says the country is shifting resources here to ease the burden on Bali's environment.

"What we want is sustainable tourism," Pangestu says in an interview. "You want to ensure that these destinations maintain their local culture, tradition and local wisdom but develop it in a way that can be understood and enjoyed by visitors."

The Bajo are part of that culture, but in this region it's the life below the water that excites.

Home to more than 25 coral reefs and 900 marine species, Wakatobi provides divers access to moray eels, dolphins, manta rays and sea turtles.

Lacy fan coral is so immense and intact it's awe-inspiring. 

"There are not that many islands, but the islands are big and all around the islands are coral," says Berveling. "There are many places where people haven't dived yet." 

All around these islands the sea extends out in a shelf. Then, suddenly, it gives way to a long, unbroken wall replete with some of the world's best hard and soft corals. 

Come evening, the sunset is the main attraction. Pinnacles, ridges, ledges and overhangs give this reef its majesty.

Snorkeling and swimming is equally serene. Quickly my companions and I forget the time and sink into a routine: swim, eat, read in a hammock. Repeat.

In the evenings we walk the shore or watch the resort staff play volleyball on a beach lapped by water as still and placid as a lake. 

Each night the sunset is more brilliant.

Sprawling and vast, Indonesia is a land of wonder and opportunity, a country ripe for adventure –- and also uncertainty.

In remote regions getting from one island to another can involve long waits and crossed fingers. But a hop around Wakatobi quickly proves why the trouble is worth it.

Exhausted by a day of island cruising and sea-creature sighting, we sink into mosquito-netted beds and listen.

With bungalow windows thrown akimbo we hear a distant boat engine, a bird warble or the void left by total, utter silence.

Getting there

Regular flights go from Jakarta to Wakatobi airport on the island of Wangi-Wangi via Kendari or Bau Bau.

Lion Air also recently launched direct flights from Jakarta to Wangi-Wangi, though they only go on certain days. Boats leave every morning between 9-11 a.m. from Wangi-Wangi to Kaledupa.

They cost about $5 and take two hours. From Kaledupa, small fishing boats take passengers across a strait to Hoga Island.

Accommodation: For a no-hassle splurge, travelers can board a charter flight from Bali direct to the Wakatobi Dive Resort, a luxury eco stay on Tolandano island with plush villas, spa services and a yacht that can personalize dive cruises.

There is only one place to stay on Hoga Island, the Tukangbesi Dive Resort. It's pleasant, affordable and includes food and daily scuba diving packages.

During the summer months guests can also rent cottages through Operation Wallacea

The fully-equpped dive center on Tomia also offers basic bungalows.

Thursday, July 4, 2013

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In defense of staying home

Posted: 03 Jul 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Vacations are nice, holidays are fun, but sometimes it's best to stay put

James Durston There's a common misconception among people of an excessively positive persuasion, that vacations are always fun.

You know the type. These are the people you see chucking each other on the shoulder about that near-death Indonesian bus ride experience, or laughing about that time they got malaria and hepatitis in the same week.

For them the world is rainbow-skied and popcorn-scented, even if it's raining sewage.

Vacations, for this crowd of anti-trolls, are like cherries on the icing on a cake made entirely of lottery wins.

Except, they're wrong.

Vacation stresses

For kids who get to eat, sleep and scream whenever they want, vacations are doubtless epic in their joyousness.

But for adults who have to search, book, pay, pack, arrange, coordinate and organize, vacation time invariably comes with a mixed sense of anticipation and dread, up there with that first haircut from the new guy and a mother's day omelet, cooked by the children.

Even, or maybe especially, when nothing goes wrong, we spend the whole time worrying about what might.

We go on two-week "breaks" with granny and gramps, three kids and an overdraft in a "villa" with one bathroom and expect to come back revitalized.

In reality, escaping the fortnight without a murder charge is an achievement, returning to the office is a relief and the dread of the next get-together is very real.

OK, I exaggerate.

But there's some truth in it, otherwise vacations wouldn't appear in the Holmes and Rahe scale of most stressful life events, above Christmas and minor law violations.

Perhaps that's why this time of year sees a deluge of articles on vacation tips.

"Summer's here!" they all proclaim. "Here's how to make sure you survive."

Conde Nast recently published a report on how to keep the whole family happy while on vacation.

The Scary Mommy blog's travel guide is "AKA How Not to Kill Your Children on Vacation."

I have a single, better, catchall tip: stay home.

Stay put and enjoy

holiday at homeWhy spend thousands just to do this somewhere else? I love staying home.

No holiday is ever as stress-free or feels as long as one in which I wear the same T-shirt for four days straight. If I wear one at all.

No vacation is as hedonistic or self-indulgent as one in which my fridge and my TV remote present the only serious decision-making challenges of the day.

No vacation can offer the hermetic privacy or sociable gregariousness as one at home, surrounded by friends, or just your own four walls.

It might seem odd for a travel editor to be promoting the opposite of seeing the world. But here's a little insight into the world of travel editing -- we're human, too.

Sometimes we just want to lock in and slob out.

I'll invoke the McDonald's defense: slobbing out at home should be part of a balanced diet of healthy travel excursions.

There are oceans to swim, hills to curse up, Japanese curiosities to ponder, after all.

Staying home doesn't have to mean hunkering down in your house, either.

It can mean exploring those corners of your own city you never get the chance to see while working.

Hong Kong, where I live, has some great beaches, but it can take four hours to get to them -- too long during a school night, but more than doable with a few days leave.

Prepare for the guilt

I've tried to "stay home" in nice hotels, indulging myself with the five-star comforts of a pillow menu, an in-room massage, a surround-sound "Back To The Future" marathon, a room-service glass of iced water.

But the guilt, oh the guilt. It's not worth it.

Every shard of sunlight, every car horn, every birdsong pierced my senses, reminding me there was a foreign world out there and I was missing it.

Back home, there's nothing to tug on your shame-strings and you realize that ignoring the pressure to which we're all exposed, to "seize the day" and "make the most," can be a good thing.

At least one study has found that vacationers are no happier after their break than those who just stayed home.

The AAA motorist group predicts that fewer Americans will travel on July 4 this year, due to a shorter holiday and economic conditions that remain sour.

Other nations too are taking fewer, shorter holidays, and when they do they're closer to home.

Good on 'em. I'm jealous. It's cheaper, too.

There's the comedown, of course -- the realization that you just spent five days of leave aping the Unabomber.

But that'll just make your next commute back to work all the more rainbow-skied and popcorn-scented.

The opinions expressed in this commentary are solely those of James Durston

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Wednesday, July 3, 2013

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Gallery: Inside Beijing's toilet restaurant

Posted: 02 Jul 2013 03:00 PM PDT

Ever thought, "What I wouldn't give to be able to eat poop-themed dishes while sitting on a toilet seat?" 

You're in luck. 

At Beijing's House of Poo -- yes, that's really its name -- all 50 seats are made from actual toilet bowls, topped with cartoon-themed warmers. Winnie the Pooh included, naturally. 

iReporter Alainsojourn shared the above photos of the restaurant as part of our recent iReport assignment asking travelers for their favorite secret Beijing spots. 

Dishes include "poo funny mud" (mashed potato) and beef curries served in tabletop toilets and mini-urinals.

"The food wasn't really that good," says Alain. "Or maybe it was good, but the environment I was in might have contributed to my judgment of the food's taste." 

Although this sounds like a textbook case of "only in Beijing," there are actually similar toilet-themed concepts at restaurants in Taiwan and Seoul.

"I would recommend this to fellow adventurous tourists with a fun attitude," says Alain. "The experience might gross you out at first, but when you're with the right people, it will be a memorable experience." 

For more on Alain's experiences, check out his blog

House of Poo, 91 Dianmen Outer Street, Xicheng District; +86 (10) 8403 5296; open daily, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.

More on CNN: Beijing's 10 weirdest restaurants 

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

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Air miles for pets: How animals are earning their holidays

Posted: 02 Jul 2013 07:00 AM PDT

Pet lovers distraught at sticking their BFFs (Best Friends Fur-ever) into a box for eight hours now have some consolation

Dog yoga.

Canine love motels.

Social "petworking" sites.

Now you can add frequent flier programs to the roll call of slightly odd but nevertheless interesting, and for some, useful, pet amenities.

Virgin Australia has become the latest to introduce a scheme that rewards pet lovers for taking their animals with them.

It's Australia's first frequent flier program for pets.

Some U.S.-based airlines already offer loyalty points to pets.

JetBlue's JetPaws progam rewards owners with 300 TrueBlue points on each flight and Virgin Atlantic launched a Flying Paws scheme in 2005 giving 1,000 bonus air miles to a pet owner's Flying Club account.

Virgin Australia's pet program adds bonus points to the air miles fliers already receive as members of the Velocity Frequent Flyer program.

Red members (the entry level) will earn an extra 300 points each time they fly with one pet carrier. Silver, Gold and Platinum members' pets will earn more points per flight -- up to 600 points per flight per pet carrier in the case of Platinum members.

According to the Velocity points table, the "cheapest" air miles flight costs 6,900 points.

More on CNN: How to travel with your dog

pet air milesOne of the entrants for the Velocity Pet Ambassador vacancy. Can your pooch do better? "Virgin Australia flies almost 30,000 pets each year around Australia, and a large proportion are owned by Velocity members, so we know how important their companions are to them," said Velocity Frequent Flyer CEO Neil Thompson.

The program will extend the current family benefits -- the ability to pool points and status credits -- to pets.

The airline has also launched a "Velocity Pet Ambassador" campaign to enlist five pets to represent the program. Winning owners will be rewarded 10,000 Velocity points each.

So far a thousand entries have been received.

If you want to enroll your pets, check the Velocity Pet Ambassador Facebook page.

Why Europe is still the best place for wine-touring

Posted: 01 Jul 2013 11:00 PM PDT

The continent is for people who like their vineyards like their vino -- nicely aged and full of character
Castello di Gabbiano

New and Old World wines have been slugging it out with increasing ferocity ever since the popping of corks from Australian, South African and South American wines became audible in Europe a few decades ago.

But while super-serious "Sideways"–style debates about bouquet and "mouthfeel" are all very well, Europe still wins when it comes to variety and what, at risk of pretension, we should call "terroir."

Visit the vineyards of Europe, from Bulgaria to Bordeaux, via Bologna and Bilbao, and you'll taste amazingly different wines in more rustic settings and situated far closer together than in the typically vast plantations of the southern hemisphere.

"The biggest difference I see is in how commercialized wine touring is in the New World regions," says Denise Medrano, aka The Wine Sleuth blogger.

"That's not to say Old World Wine wineries don't want to sell you their wine, but they are likely to do so from the cellar door -- literally.

"There isn't the same flash and glitz as in the New World. There may be a few wine shops scattered around the main street, but you won't find a 'wine train' or a 'wine experience' on offer."

An often more venerable winemaking history also enriches the experience of visiting vineyards in France, Spain, Italy and other tannin-scented parts of Europe.

"The traditions and family history that go into the wine are all part of what enhances the drinking experience," Medrano says.

An earthy quality -- literally

What much of the Old World appeal comes down to is an elusive quality known as "terroir."

In "Mondovino," his Palme d'Or-nominated film from 2004, director Jonathan Nossiter explored this wine quality that combines soil, climate, grape variety and husbandry.

Loosely, Nossiter concluded that Old World vineyards had terroir -- which literally means "earth" -- in spades, while the increasingly corporate New World wine fields lacked it, but were damn good at marketing.

Billecart-Salmon As Champagne's oldest family-owned wine house, Billecart-Salmon's history is as compelling as its bubbly. Billecart-Salmon (40 Rue Carnot; +33 0 3 2652 6022), the Champagne region's oldest family-owned wine house, exemplifies this elusive notion.

Dating from 1818, the property shimmers with French style, but in a far more understated way than at the luxury colossus Moet & Chandon, just up the road.

From the elegant main house, billeted by Nazi officers during World War II, to the ripe-smelling cellars, basically untouched since 1840, the history of the place is almost as compelling as its produce.

Sadly, you can't drink history.  

To try the house's bubbly, you find its tasting room down an unassuming side street in the pretty Champagne town of Mareuil-Sur-Ay, next door to another pop star and plutocrat favorite, Bollinger.

The oak-aged Brut Sous Boi 2011 is delicious -- at around $100 a bottle, dangerously so.

Grenache-guzzling popes

Wine-making in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 400 miles south of Champagne in hilly Provence, goes back more than 700 years.

Grenache-guzzling popes helped start the tradition of producing some of the world's finest reds here when the papacy moved briefly to Avignon.

The best stuff comes from producers such as Ogier (link in French; 10 Avenue Louis Pasteur; +33 0 4 90 39 32 32), which has been around for the best part of 200 years.

If you're not an OCD wine enthusiast like "I am NOT drinking any f------ merlot" Miles from "Sideways," the guys here will explain how the region's soils and the barrels used for ageing influence the wine's taste.

Marqués de Riscal wineryEuropean wine cellars have history in buckets ... no, barrels! In a tutored tasting, you'll learn to detect flavor notes such as blackberry and licorice and to tell whether the wine is aged or young.

You might even be persuaded to spit the wine out out once you've sniffed it and swirled it around your mouth.

A half-hour drive to the east, through Provence, you enter a region awash with small vineyards plying their wares from tasting rooms that might be tacked on to a barn or a fading chateau.

There's a real sense of discovery here that only such idiosyncratic little places, often passed down through the generations, can offer.

Domaine des Favards (link in French; 1335 and 1353, Route d'Orange, Violès; +33 0 4 90 70 94 64) is a good example, with an acerbic but lively rosé. They even make wine jam, if you like something from the vine with every meal.

History by the glass

France might come first to mind for many people when thinking of European wine, but no serious grape juice fan should stop at its borders.

In Italy, references to the renowned Chianti-producing vineyards around spectacular Castello di Gabbiano (Via di Gabbiano; +39 0 55 821 053; daily tasting tours available) go back to the 11th century.

Australian or South African vineyards just don't have that history.

Marqués de Riscal wineryThe Marqués de Riscal winery hotel might look like a crash-landed spaceship, but its cellars date from 1858. Not that European winemakers necessarily shy away from the new. With its exterior of huge colorful metal sheets, like a pile of crumpled wrapping paper, the Frank Gehry-designed Hotel Marqués de Riscal (Calle Torrea 1; +34 945 180 880), in the Spanish Rioja region, couldn't be more modern.

Yet its cellars were built in 1858 -- and as you sip on a glass of the Gehry Selection 2001 it feels as if old and new are getting along pretty well in the property and the glass.

Still, if you fancy a taste of the new world in Europe, you can find it at Camel Valley (+44 0 1208 77959) in the UK's Cornish village of Nanstallon. Here, wines such as the 2011 Cornwall Pinot Noir Rose Brut rank with the best of the new European sparkling wines among critics.

A thrusting young vineyard such as this represents, so to speak, the best of both worlds.